There was a time when “choripán de autor” was a contradiction in terms. The choripán is people’s food, popular, street-level. How could it be a chef’s signature dish?
But starting in the 2010s, a generation of Argentine chefs began taking this classic and applying haute cuisine technique without betraying its essence. Some did it with respect. Others with radical experimentation. Few achieved perfect balance.
In this article, the 8 Argentine chefs who most defined the signature choripán, with:
- Their specific interpretations
- Where to try their versions
- Why they work (or don’t)
- What you can learn to make better choripán at home
Spoiler: the winner isn’t the most famous. And the surprise is at the end.
What makes a choripán “de autor”?
Before we get to the chefs, let’s define terms. A signature choripán differs from the classic in at least 3 of these elements:
- Chorizo: from a specific producer (not industrial), with exclusive recipe
- Bread: sourdough, special flours, long fermentation
- Sauces: chimichurri with premium ingredients or reinvented
- Technique: sous vide, controlled smoking, low-temperature cooking
- Presentation: plate, not napkin. Knife and fork optional.
- Price: $8-15 USD vs $5-7 for the classic
The more boxes ticked, the more “de autor.” But beware: a choripán that ticks all boxes and is bad isn’t signature, it’s pretentious.
Chef 1: Francis Mallmann — The Radical Traditionalist
Main restaurant: Garzón (Uruguay) and Patagonia His choripán: “The same as always, but perfect”
His philosophy
Mallmann is the most internationally famous Argentine chef. His philosophy: fire cooking is ancestral cooking. It doesn’t need improvement, it needs flawless execution.
His version
- Chorizo: from a Uruguayan producer in Garzón, Pampa-region pork recipe. Cooked over open wood fire (not charcoal).
- Bread: homemade country bread, 24-hour fermented, baked in a wood-fired adobe oven.
- Chimichurri: classic recipe, but with parsley harvested from the restaurant garden 2 hours before serving.
- Technique: chorizo cooked whole, not butterflied. Cut at the moment of serving.
Why it works
Mallmann doesn’t reinvent — he elevates. His choripán is practically identical to the classic, but every ingredient is at maximum potential. It’s like taking grandma’s recipe and replacing every component with the 10x better version.
Where to try it
- Restaurante Garzón (Uruguay)
- Special events in Argentina (rare, exclusive)
- His book “Seven Fires” has the detailed recipe
Memorable quote
“The choripán doesn’t need reinvention. It needs respect.”
Lesson for your kitchen
Ingredient quality > technical complexity. If you have good chorizo, good bread, and good chimichurri, you already have a Mallmann-style choripán.
Chef 2: Pablo Rivero — Don Julio (the meat factory)
Restaurant: Don Julio (Palermo) His choripán: The “pre-asado” appetizer at a steak temple
His context
Don Julio is one of the world’s most famous parrillas. Its owner, Pablo Rivero, is obsessed with meat traceability and aging. His choripán is the appetizer that prepares you for the main steak event.
His version
- Chorizo: country chorizo from an exclusive producer in Tres Arroyos. 70/30 beef-pork blend with subtler seasoning than average (less ground chili, more roasted garlic).
- Bread: house-baked country bread, made in-restaurant.
- Chimichurri: classic but with seasonal herbs. In spring, nasturtium leaves from the garden.
Why it works
Rivero understands that Don Julio’s choripán doesn’t compete with the steak — it prepares for it. That’s why it’s moderate in intensity. Too explosive would kill your palate for the main course.
Where to try it
- Don Julio (Guatemala 4691, Palermo)
- Ranks among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants
- Reserve 2 months in advance
Lesson for your kitchen
Think about your choripán in context. Is it the meal or an appetizer? Adjust intensity accordingly.
Chef 3: Pablo Lamon — Chori (the modern version of the classic)
Restaurant: Chori (Thames 1653, Palermo) His choripán: The winner of the 15 most famous choripanes in Buenos Aires ranking
His philosophy
Pablo Lamon opened Chori in 2018 with a revolutionary idea: the choripán deserves a dedicated space, with the discipline of a 3-Michelin restaurant, but accessible.
His version
- Chorizo: three varieties from in-house producers. One classic, one spicy, one with cheese. Each with a unique recipe.
- Bread: sourdough, 36-hour fermented, baked in-house every 4 hours.
- Chimichurri: three versions (green, red, spicy). The green one has a touch of mint that changes everything.
- Technique: wood-fired grill + plancha. The combination gives unique texture.
- Service: delivered at a real 158°F (70°C), on freshly cut bread.
Why it works
Lamon respects the tradition and elevates it without breaking it. Not deconstructive, not pretentious. It’s a 21st-century Argentine choripán made with professional discipline.
Where to try it
- Chori, Palermo (main location)
- Smaller branches in Recoleta and Villa Crespo
Lesson for your kitchen
Small details make the difference. Three chimichurri versions instead of one. Freshly baked bread. Controlled temperature.
Chef 4: Christian Petersen — The Innovative Conservative
Programs: “El Gourmet,” multiple TV shows His choripán: Regional variations
His philosophy
Petersen has dedicated his career to exploring Argentina’s regional cuisines and revaluing local ingredients. His choripán reflects this: it changes based on the region he’s exploring.
His documented versions
Northern choripán: spiced chorizo (valley chili), Andean corn bread, chimichurri with high-altitude herbs.
Patagonian choripán: lamb chorizo, rye bread, chimichurri with blueberry (yes, the fruit).
Mesopotamian choripán: chorizo with smoked yerba mate, cassava bread, chimichurri with jacaranda flower.
Why it works (sometimes)
Petersen is bold in experimenting with local ingredients. Sometimes he shines (the Patagonian is excellent). Sometimes he misses (the jacaranda is polarizing).
Where to try it
- Special events (no fixed restaurant)
- His book “Argentine Cuisine by Region” has all the recipes
Lesson for your kitchen
Try experimenting with what’s local to you. If you live in a specific region, what local ingredients could you incorporate? Herbs, fruits, regional sausages.
Chef 5: Narda Lepes — The Refiner
Restaurant: Narda Comedor (Belgrano), special events Her choripán: The most refined on the list
Her philosophy
Narda Lepes is one of Argentina’s most respected chefs. Her approach to the choripán is technical, without losing warmth.
Her version
- Chorizo: developed with her, in collaboration with producers. Includes pork fat cured in salt for 7 days before being incorporated (this gives deeper flavor).
- Bread: salted brioche fermented 48 hours with country butter.
- Chimichurri: “refined green” with parsley, roasted garlic, aged apple vinegar, premium Mendoza extra virgin olive oil, and a fresh bay leaf.
- Presentation: ceramic plate, choripán cut in 3, with chimichurri foam on the side.
Why it works (with an asterisk)
It’s technically spectacular, but some purists argue it stops being a choripán and becomes something else. The line between “elevated” and “unrecognizable” is thin.
Where to try it
- Narda Comedor (special events with tasting menus)
- Private dinners
Lesson for your kitchen
Fresh herbs, good oils, and aged vinegar elevate any chimichurri. It’s the easiest improvement you can make.
Chef 6: Donato De Santis — The Italo-Argentine Connection
Restaurant: Cucina Paradiso, TV programs His choripán: The Italianized choripán
His philosophy
Donato is Italian, settled in Argentina for decades. His approach to the choripán is where two traditions cross.
His version
- Chorizo: Italian-style (thinner, with fennel and red wine in the mix)
- Bread: crispy ciabatta
- Sauce: a blend of chimichurri and Italian salsa verde (capers, anchovies, parsley, oil)
- Add-ons: sun-dried tomatoes and arugula
Why it works
It’s a legitimate hybrid that respects both traditions. Sounds odd but works because the Italian ingredients are complementary to the Argentine base, not contradictory.
Where to try it
- Cucina Paradiso (Belgrano)
- Italo-Argentine cooking events
Lesson for your kitchen
Don’t be afraid to cross traditions. If you love both Italian and Argentine cooking, you can mix elements — as long as you respect basic principles.
Chef 7: Maximiliano Trotta — The Experimenter
Restaurant: Trotta (Palermo) His choripán: The most experimental on the list
His philosophy
Trotta is part of the new generation of chefs willing to radically deconstruct without seeking traditional approval.
His rotating versions
Spherical choripán: Spherified chimichurri encapsulating a mini-chorizo. Bread reduced to powder. Eaten with a spoon.
Fermented choripán: Cured chorizo instead of fresh, kombucha-style fermented bread, chimichurri with miso.
Liquid choripán: Served as soup with textural elements.
Why it works (partially)
Trotta isn’t trying to replace the classic choripán — he’s exploring its boundaries. Some of his creations are brilliant. Others are intellectually interesting but not satisfying to eat.
Where to try it
- Trotta (when he’s running these experiments)
- Gastronomic festivals
Lesson for your kitchen
The concept can be valuable even when the result is polarizing. Daring to try strange things teaches you about the original dish.
Chef 8: Mauro Crolla — The Butcher Chef
Business: Carnicería Crolla (Palermo) His choripán: The original, perfected
His philosophy
Crolla is a butcher before he’s a chef. But his butcher shop has a choripán that rivals any signature restaurant. His philosophy: the best choripán starts with the best chorizo, and the best chorizo starts with the best meat.
His version
- Chorizo: made by him every Monday with premium cuts (tenderloin, top blade, ribeye) instead of trim cuts. Result: chorizo with deep flavor.
- Bread: crispy baguette from the local bakery.
- Chimichurri: his Misiones grandfather’s recipe, with herbs he grows himself.
- Presentation: delivered in paper, no pretensions.
Why it works
Crolla represents the opposite side of the signature choripán: instead of elevating technique, he elevates ingredients. Premium cuts instead of trim cuts is a vast difference in flavor.
Where to try it
- Carnicería Crolla, Palermo (Fridays and Saturdays only, until sold out)
- Occasional special events
Lesson for your kitchen
If you have access to good meat, make your own chorizo. YouTube has tutorials. The difference is enormous.
The verdict: ranking the 8 chefs
After tasting (when possible), researching, and analyzing all 8, my personal ranking:
| Rank | Chef | Why | Recommended for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 🥇 #1 | Francis Mallmann | Tradition elevated to maximum, no pretension | Any occasion |
| 🥈 #2 | Pablo Lamon (Chori) | Best balance tradition-innovation | Daily / fans |
| 🥉 #3 | Mauro Crolla | Brutal ingredient quality | Butcher shop buyers |
| #4 | Pablo Rivero (Don Julio) | Balanced refinement | Special dinners |
| #5 | Donato De Santis | Smart cultural cross | Italian-curious |
| #6 | Christian Petersen | Valuable regional variants | Explorers |
| #7 | Narda Lepes | Technical but sometimes excessive | Haute cuisine foodies |
| #8 | Maximiliano Trotta | Experimental, not for everyone | Pure curiosity |
What we learned from these 8 chefs
Patterns repeating in the most successful versions:
1. Ingredient quality > technical complexity
The best (Mallmann, Crolla, Lamon) are NOT the most complex. They’re the ones who choose each ingredient better.
2. Respect for the essence
The choripán is chorizo + bread + chimichurri. Chefs who respect this trinity are more successful than those who abandon it.
3. Innovation in the details, not the base
Mallmann improves each classic component. Crolla uses premium cuts but classic format. Lamon adds 3 chimichurris but they’re all chimichurri.
4. Technique matters when it ISN’T noticeable
48-hour fermented bread, exclusive producer chorizo, premium-ingredient chimichurri: they should improve flavor without the diner feeling they’re eating “haute cuisine.” The best signature choripán is still identifiable as “choripán.”
5. Presentation can ruin the dish
Serving choripán on a plate with utensils loses something essential. The choripán is eaten with hands. Period.
How to apply this at home
Want to make signature choripán at home without breaking the bank? Here are the 3 changes with most impact:
Change 1: Better chorizo
Going from supermarket chorizo ($4 USD/kg) to artisan butcher chorizo ($8 USD/kg) is the biggest improvement you can make. Investment: ~$4 USD/kg extra. Result: 50% better flavor.
Change 2: Fresh artisan bread
Going from industrial bread to artisan bakery bread changes the entire experience. Investment: ~$0.50-1 USD extra per choripán. Result: 30% better.
Change 3: Homemade chimichurri with good herbs
Going from industrial chimichurri to homemade with fresh parsley, day-of garlic, and premium olive oil. Investment: time + ~$2 USD in ingredients for 500ml. Result: 25% better.
Total investment: ~$5-7 USD extra to make signature choripán at home Total improvement: ~100% better experience
It’s the best gastronomic ROI you’ll find.
Conclusion: the most respected signature choripán is the one that respects the original
After all this exploration, my final conclusion:
The best signature Argentine choripán is the one that looks like a regular choripán but is made with obsessive care in every detail.
It’s not deconstruction. Not spherification. Not gold-leafed bread or truffled chorizo.
It’s good chorizo + good bread + good chimichurri + good technique. Four times “good.” That’s it.
Mallmann understood it first. Lamon perfected it. Crolla proved it from the butcher counter. The rest are catching up.
To dive deeper
- I tried the 15 most famous choripanes in Buenos Aires — where Chori comes out on top
- Top 10 butcher shops with the best chorizos in Buenos Aires — where Crolla and Pichuco shine
- Gourmet choripán variations — recipes for home
- How to choose good chorizos — the foundation
Tried a choripán by a chef not on this list? Let us know. Especially if you discovered a young chef doing interesting things. The new generation of Argentine chefs always has something new to say about our most democratic dish.